River Wear

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River Wear
Physical characteristics
MouthSunderland
Length96 km (60 miles)

The River Wear (pronounced /'wɪ:ə/) is a river in North East England. Rising in the east Pennines, its head waters consisting of several streams draining from the hills between Killhope Law and Burnhope Seat, the head of the river is held to be in Wearhead, County Durham at the confluence of Burnhope Burn and Rookhope Burn. The river flows eastwards through Weardale, one of several vallies of eastern County Durham, subsequently turning south-east, and then north-east, meandering its way through County Durham to the North Sea where it outfalls at Wearmouth in Sunderland. The river is 96 km (60 miles) from head to mouth. Prior to the creation of the short-lived county of Tyne and Wear, the Wear had been the longest river in England with a course entirely within one county. A long-distance public footpath ("The Weardale Way") roughly follows the entire route.

History

Prior to the last Ice Age, the course of the River Wear from Chester-le-Street was northwards, following the current route of the lower River Team. The confluence of the River Wear with the River Tyne was at Dunston. Augmented with flow from the River Wear, the River Tyne had gouged a deep river valley as it flowed towards the North Sea through what is now Newcastle upon Tyne, Jarrow and Hebburn, to the coast at Tynemouth and South Shields. When glacial bouder clay was deposited blocking its northerly course, the River Wear was diverted eastwards towards Sunderland where it was forced to cut a new, shallower valley. Whereas the lower reaches of the River Tyne had cut deeply into the underlying bedrock, therefore allowing the Tyne to be dredged, thus permitting deep draught shipping, the bedrock beneath the Wear at Sunderland was too shallow to permit deep draught shipping. This may go some way to explain the greater industrial growth of Tyneside compared to Wearside.

There are several notable towns, sights and tourist places along the length of the river. The market town of Stanhope is known in part for the ford across the river. On the edge of Bishop Auckland the Wear passes below Auckland Park and Auckland Castle, the official residence of the Bishop of Durham and its Deer Park. A mile or so downstream from here, the Wear passes Binchester Roman Fort, Vinovia. From Bishop Auckland the River Wear meanders in a general northeasterly direction, demonstrating many fluvial features of a mature river, including wide valley walls, fertile flood plains and ox-bow lakes. Bridges over the river become more substantial, such as those at Sunderland Bridge (near Croxdale), and Shincliffe.

Durham

The wooded riverbanks of the Wear as it flows through Durham.

When it reaches the city of Durham the River Wear passes through a deep, wooded gorge, from which several springs emerge, historically used as sources of fresh water; and a number of coal seams are visible. Twisting sinuously, the river has cut deeply into the (Cathedral Sandstone) bedrock, creating a peninsula which is known as such in Durham. This peninsula was formerly exploited as a defensive enclosure, and include a motte, inner bailey and outer bailey, now represented by road alignments, city walls and the imposing Norman monuments of Durham Castle and Durham Cathedral, The latter contains the tomb and pilgrimage shrine of St. Cuthbert and the tomb of St. Bede. Between the castle and cathedral is an open lawned space named Palace Green. Palace Green and its encircling buildings is a UN World Heritage Site. As the Wear flows though the City of Durham, it passes beneath eight bridges: Bath's Bridge (modern footbridge); New Elvet Bridge (modern road bridge); Elvet Bridge (medieval road bridge, now largely pedestianised); Kingsgate Bridge (modern footbridge); Prebends' Bridge (18th century road bridge, now effectively pedestriansed); Framwellgate Bridge (medieval road bridge, now largely pedestianised); Milburngate Bridge (modern road bridge); Pennyfeather Bridge (modern footbridge). The River Wear at Durham was featured on a television programme "Seven Natural Wonders" as one of the wonders of the North.

There are two weirs impeding the flow of the river through the city: the first at the Old Fulling Mill, the second, more complex weir, beneath Milburngate Bridge and beside the former ice rink, includes a salmon leap and fish counter (largely trout and salmon), and is on the site of a former ford.

Durham to Chester-le-Street

Finchale Priory on the banks of the River Wear

Between Durham City and Chester-le-Street, ten miles due north, the River Wear changes direction repeatedly, flowing south westwards several miles downstream having passed the medieval site of Finchale Priory, a former chapel and later a satellite monastery depending on the abbey church of Durham Cathedral. Two miles downstream, the river is flowing south eastwards. As it passes Chester-le-Street, where the river is overlooked by Lumley Castle, its flood plain has been developed into The Riverside, the home pitch of Durham County Cricket Club. Passing through the Lambton Estate (still owned by the Lambton family, and briefly a lion park during the 1970s) the river becomes tidal, and therefore navigable.

City of Sunderland

On exiting the Lambton estate the river leaves County Durham and enters the City of Sunderland (formerly Tyne and Wear), specifically the southern/south-eastern edge of the new town of Washington. At Fatfield the river passes beneath Worm Hill, around which the Lambton Worm is reputed to have curled its tail.

Already the riverbanks are showing evidence of past industrialisation, with former collieries and chemical works. A little further downstream the river passes beneath the Victoria Viaduct, a railway viaduct opened in 1838, then carrying the East Coast Main Line. A mile to the east is Penshaw Monument, a local iconic landmark. As the river leaves the environs of Washington, it forms the eastern boundary of Washington Wildfowl Trust. Having flowed beneath the A19 trunk road, the river enters the suburbs of Sunderland the riverbanks show further evidence of past industrialisation, with former collieries, engineering works, and dozens of shipyards. In their time, Wearside shipbuilders were some of the most famous and productive shipyards in the world. The artist L.S Lowrey visited Sunderland repeatedly and painted pictures of the industrial landscape around the river. Three bridges cross the Wear in Sunderland: the Queen Alexandra Bridge to the west, and the Wearmouth Rail and Road Bridges in the city centre. On both banks at this point there are modern developments, some belonging to Sunderland University (St Peter's Campus, Scotia Quay residences) and to the National Glass Centre

St. Peter's Campus, The river flows past St. Peter's Campus, University of Sunderland, the National Glass Centre, then into the North Sea.

The River Wear flows out of Sunderland between Roker Pier and South Pier, and into the North Sea.

See also